{"id":257,"date":"2017-03-27T07:34:41","date_gmt":"2017-03-27T07:34:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=257"},"modified":"2017-06-05T06:28:16","modified_gmt":"2017-06-05T06:28:16","slug":"phantom-tiger-and-a-mausoleum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=257&lang=en","title":{"rendered":"Phantom tiger and a mausoleum"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We knew, that Jaipur is a good starting point to visit a national park and see some wild life. To arrange this, we\u2019ve contacted a travel agent, who was very helpful and convinced us to shorten our stay in Jaipur and skip a day in Agra and visit a national park instead \u2013 promising a chance to see wild tigers \u2013 you can\u2019t say no to this!<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>On the next morning we packed our backpacks into a car and our driver Ravi took us to our next adventure J So far we\u2019ve been traveling by train or plane between the cities and didn\u2019t see much of the inter-city roads\u2026 This time, we experienced all of it, washed-out broken pavement, all kinds of animals on the road, trucks driving on the wrong side of the highway, trucks overtaking each other nearly hitting the traffic in the opposite direction etc. but what was really impressive is the calmness of our driver Ravi, who seemed to be immune to the craze of the traffic and took us safely and relaxed to our destination.<\/p>\n<p>We booked two safari rides to the park to increase our chances to see wildlife (especially tigers) and so our first tour started directly on our arrival. We\u2019ve been picked up by a big truck, which looked like a convertible bus without a roof. As we were under the first ones, we got to sit in the first row, next to the driver. At the entrance to the national park, we\u2019ve been welcomed by several groups of monkeys, who really weren\u2019t surprised seeing us. Once inside the park, we saw a whole lot of wild life: different kinds of deer, antelopes, peacocks and crocodiles but no tigers. All those animals were so much used to tourists and the busses, that they didn\u2019t even make an attempt to run away or hide from us \u2013 tourists belong to their environment as much as anything else. At some point, our bus stopped at the road and the guides showed us a mark in the sand, which they said belonged to a tiger. That could have been an end of this trip, which we wouldn\u2019t have regretted. But after the next corner, there was a traffic jam (!!!) in the middle of nowhere. It turned out, that there is a tiger somewhere in the bush and all cars\/busses were collected at this one spot and everyone was trying to get a glimpse of that poor thing. As long as our bus was in the back of the line, the drivers screamed at the drivers in the front to make them move and make space for those in the back. When we were finally at the spot, the other drivers screamed at our driver, who couldn\u2019t care less (as the others when they were in the spot) until everyone saw the tiger. Speaking of which- this utterly reminded us of the tale about the emperor\u2019s new clothes. Everyone was looking into the bush and was pretending to see something somewhere while Alice and I seemed to be the only ones seeing just what was there \u2013 bush, may be also some plants\u2026 you know&#8230; green leaves&#8230; We really couldn\u2019t recognize any tiger there and even after looking closely at all pictures we\u2019ve taken, I\u2019m not sure if it is a tiger or a bunch of dark leaves, but at least we\u2019ve seen many other animals and a nice landscape so we counted the day as success. On the next morning we woke up early as we had our second tour to the park. This time we took a different entrance in order to see another part of the park and just after a couple minutes again the same picture \u2013 jammed road, dust, hordes of people screaming around, cameras clicking \u2013 there must be a tiger in the bush. Our driver did the same as the one the day before- by screaming and driving through the green (not that it is a national park and you would expect them to respect the nature\u2026) he got us to \u201cthe spot\u201d where a tiger supposedly was eating a cow. And again, we couldn\u2019t see anything. But this time a friendly driver from the car standing next to ours has let us crawl over on their Jeep an there it was, an actual free tiger having his breakfast and not caring about all those uncivilized people around him. At some point he seemed to have enough of the show (and the cow) and just walked away and in that moment we saw him walking through a glade in the bush- Goosebumps! As our tour guides fulfilled their objective of showing us a tiger, the rest of the tour was as disappointing as the beginning. We rushed through the park for about 30 minutes, saw a couple of deer and antelopes, destroyed some more plants and got out in a cloud of dust. We both were left with mixed feelings about this visit \u2013 on the one hand we saw one of the few tigers in their natural habitat and might not have this chance in a couple of years any more. On the other hand, we are well aware, that by our visit we also supported the behavior of those drivers and the way too high number of cars driving around in this park.<\/p>\n<p>On the next day, we were heading to Agra, the home of one of the wonders of the world and India\u2019s most famous landmark: the Taj Mahal. Whenever we were telling someone, that we\u2019re planning to spend over two days in Agra, they were giving us strange looks and asking, what we are planning to do there. Finally the tour operator, who helped us to organize the visit in Ranthambore brought it to the point: \u201cAgra is a sh*thole\u201d. But at that time we only thought: how bad could it be? On the way there we stopped at <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Chand_Baori\">Chand Baori<\/a>, one of the biggest and most impressive step wells in India dating back to 800-900 AD century. This well is about 30 m deep and has 13 storeys, which is quite impressive (especially considering the age) and looks pretty cool on pictures \ud83d\ude42 This step well is also featured in many movies\u2026 the recent most prominent one is \u201cBatman \u2013 The dark knight rises&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Due to the road conditions described before, it took us all day to drive the 300km from Ranthambore to Agra, but we arrived just in time to see the sun set over the Taj Mahal from <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mehtab_Bagh\">Metah Bagh<\/a> on the opposite side of the river. The way to the gardens and back went through the craziest traffic, we\u2019ve experienced in India and perfectly explained, what all the others said about Agra \u2013 there is nothing else to see or to do in Agra besides the Taj Mahal. There is a lot of crazy traffic, dust, dirt, stray dogs and nothing else. But this time we were not the unprepared tourists as in other places, we read several articles giving recommendations on how and when to visit the Taj, we bought our tickets online in advance, we didn\u2019t bring any forbidden items with us (basically anything except a camera) and, most importantly, we were about to go to the Taj at sunrise. The gates opened at 06:45 and we were in the first dozen of people in front of the gate. Those fresh and happy American tourists were a bit irritating, as Alice and I were still in the middle of the night \u2013 probably the jetlag was working for them. \ud83d\ude00 Once the gates were open and we were through several pointless security screenings, we were heading to the entrance just to be blown away by the beauty of this place. The white marble was shining in the red morning sun and made our jaws drop to the ground. You can see thousands of pictures, but none of them transport the feeling of actually standing there and seeing it with your own eyes. And the sentence \u201cThis is it, this is what we\u2019re doing it for\u201d went through our heads again and again. The advantage of being amongst the first ones on the premises was, that we could have some really nice pictures with only a few other people \u2013 we saw later how the place became more and more crowded. Once the pictures were taken, we walked inside and saw again, how much work and love to the details, the builders have invested into this monument. We found a place with a nice view and sat around for a while to be mesmerized by the beauty of the Taj. After the visit we were just looking forward to get back to Delhi and meet our friendly host Sunil, whom we knew from our first visit in Delhi. But Delhi was just a short stopover to our next destination across India. The far north east \u2013 where the Darjeeling tea originates.<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"embed-youtube\" style=\"text-align:center; display: block;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"youtube-player\" width=\"525\" height=\"296\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/o-iCKg49PjQ?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;fs=1&#038;hl=en-US&#038;autohide=2&#038;wmode=transparent\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" style=\"border:0;\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox\"><\/iframe><\/span><\/p>\n<div class='photonic-error'>\n\t<span class='photonic-error-icon photonic-icon'>&nbsp;<\/span>\n\t<div class='photonic-message'>\n\t\tGoogle has deprecated the Picasa API. Please consider switching over to Google Photos\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class='photonic-error'>\n\t<span class='photonic-error-icon photonic-icon'>&nbsp;<\/span>\n\t<div class='photonic-message'>\n\t\tGoogle has deprecated the Picasa API. Please consider switching over to Google Photos\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We knew, that Jaipur is a good starting point to visit a national park and see some wild life. To arrange this, we\u2019ve contacted a travel agent, who was very helpful and convinced us to shorten our stay in Jaipur and skip a day in Agra and visit a national park instead \u2013 promising a &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=257&#038;lang=en\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Phantom tiger and a mausoleum&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":258,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[45,12,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-257","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-india","category-photo","category-travel"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSC_4280.jpg?fit=5893%2C3616&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p8ez4G-49","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":223,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=223&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":0},"title":"Amber Fort and the chef","author":"Alice","date":"10\/03\/2017","format":false,"excerpt":"After Amritsar, Michael and I decided to travel to Jaipur\u00a0as it was described as one of the most beautiful towns in northern India. At the station, we were not the only travelers but most likely\u00a0the ones, who were cornered the most by the pesky taxi and tuk tuk drivers who\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Food&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Food","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=14&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/DSCN0353.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/DSCN0353.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/DSCN0353.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/DSCN0353.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/DSCN0353.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":46,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=46&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":1},"title":"Hello world!","author":"Michael","date":"25\/12\/2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Hello and welcome to our blog! This is meant to be our travel diary and also the place where Alice and I will share our adventures during our one year long round the world trip. Right now, we are 44 days away from our first flight and the most urgent\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Travel&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Travel","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=10&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":398,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=398&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":2},"title":"Killer bees and mountain roads","author":"Michael","date":"04\/06\/2017","format":false,"excerpt":"The east coast of Taiwan is the more rural part of the country, where indigenous tribes still live in the mountains and one can enjoy a scenic coastal road with the ocean on one side and green hills on the other - we didn\u2019t need much more to be convinced.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Taiwan&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Taiwan","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=61&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSCN1015.jpg?fit=1200%2C1103&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSCN1015.jpg?fit=1200%2C1103&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSCN1015.jpg?fit=1200%2C1103&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSCN1015.jpg?fit=1200%2C1103&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSCN1015.jpg?fit=1200%2C1103&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":263,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=263&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":3},"title":"Tea hills and colonial railways","author":"Michael","date":"29\/03\/2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Darjeeling is the pearl of teas and the Darjeeling region is a hidden gem where only a few westerners find their way to. Michael and I are both tea lovers and enjoy a good cup of black tea, especially if it is Darjeeling tea. We knew, that the region can\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Food&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Food","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=14&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSCN0686-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C785&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSCN0686-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C785&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSCN0686-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C785&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSCN0686-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C785&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/DSCN0686-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C785&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":275,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=275&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":4},"title":"Himalayas and uninvited guests","author":"Michael","date":"23\/04\/2017","format":false,"excerpt":"The choice of transportation to get from Darjeeling to Kathmandu is quite limited: You can go back all the way to Delhi and fly to Kathmandu for a more or less reasonable price \u2013 which is connected with two days of travelling, you can cross the border to Nepal by\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Nepal&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Nepal","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=47&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_5237.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_5237.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_5237.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_5237.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_5237.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":429,"url":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?p=429&lang=en","url_meta":{"origin":257,"position":5},"title":"Hot Pot and shaved ice","author":"Michael","date":"27\/06\/2017","format":false,"excerpt":"After Taitung, we had a long journey in front of us \u2013 we took the train and traveled half way around the island to Taichung, the city, where our friend Johannes lives and which would be the base for our adventures. Once there, we met Johannes and rented a car\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Travel&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Travel","link":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/?cat=10&lang=en"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC_9062_feature.jpg?fit=1200%2C801&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC_9062_feature.jpg?fit=1200%2C801&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC_9062_feature.jpg?fit=1200%2C801&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC_9062_feature.jpg?fit=1200%2C801&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/DSC_9062_feature.jpg?fit=1200%2C801&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=257"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":412,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/257\/revisions\/412"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/258"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=257"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=257"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memoriesaresouvenirs.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=257"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}